FIRENZE - FLORENCE
Saturday, September 20th, Amsterdam Airport
It’s 7:45 am and we’re (Tom, Terri, Darrell, and Jo) in the Constellation Bar. The Bernard contingent is probably getting close to landing in Frankfurt. The sun is just beginning to rise. Terri loves European coffee. Jo loves Heineken. Surprise, surprise. Tom and Darrell are time traveling. They predict the sun will come up today in California - in about nine hours.
Saturday, September 20th, Florence (Italy)
Arrived in Florence and gathered our luggage. Saw that the Bernard’s would not be arriving for some time yet, so we hailed two taxis and headed to the Hotel Perseo. As we were early, Jo and Darrell’s room was the only one ready, but we were able to check into it and all grabbed a quick shower to revive. MJ, Alan, and Lisa arrived soon thereafter, and we quickly headed out to see the sights. Note to Fran: Our first stop was to church. More specifically the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, or the Duomo. It’s still standing. And so are we - in line to climb Brunelleschi’s dome. Hope the ambulance that came by earlier doesn’t have anything to do with the line having stopped. The Duomo’s interior was cavernous but not really much to look at. The views from the dome, however, more than made up for it. Definitely worth the 463 stairs.
Went by Santa Maria Novella but were too late to get in. Swallowed our disappointment, as well as a beer, at Republic Square. Saw the jugglers then headed back toward the Duomo.
The Baptistery interior was absolutely stunning - Byzantine dome and inferno-style panels. Exterior doors, specifically Ghiberti’s Gates of Paradise, were all we expected them to be - phenomenal.
6 o’clock meant happy hour so we took a quick walk around Giotto’s Campanile (Bell Tower) and headed back to the hotel for drinks.
Dinner at Il Trebbio, recommended by the hotel, was super. Jo, Alan, and MJ all had the Ossu Buco. Delicious. Second note to Fran: Ossu Buco is not really round steak. Lisa’s crepes, more like a cheese/spinach dip, were enjoyed by all. The wine served in ceramic pitchers were pretty. MJ sopping up Darrell’s gravy was not. Tom dropped his passport on the floor but thankfully Terri discovered it.
After dinner we strolled looking for a jacket MJ had seen earlier. Never found it but did find a great outdoor cafe, Trattoria da I Matti, with to-die-for tiramisu. Sitting outside and soaking up the atmosphere finally made the trip real for Jo and she had her defining moment.
Back to the hotel. Talked about euchre, but no follow through. Crashed!
Sunday, September 21st, Florence (Italy)
Rushed morning!!! 7:30 breakfast but, oh my, Tom lost his wallet. Sure put Terri’s not being able to use her curling iron in perspective. Tom was online ready to deactivate his credit cards when he reached back to his back pocket and… A seven chorus “Hallelujah” soon followed, accompanied by a few tears. No time to celebrate find, however, as needed to rush off for our 8:15 appointment with David. So rushed, MJ left everything - money, umbrellas, museum confirmations - behind. Fire alarm going off as we were getting ready to leave didn’t help.
Got to the Accademia in record time. No problem with our reservations. During very short wait in line, Lisa, and Terri too, bought a scarf for 10 euros.
Pretty much had the museum to ourselves. David was unbelievable. So huge (well, not all of him), so incredibly lifelike. You honestly could see the focus in his eyes. MJ was impressed with the room of busts. Crowds were really moving in by the time we left.
Got to the Uffizi around 9:15 but we weren’t on the 9:30 reservation list. Nor were we on any other list for that day. Without our confirmation info there wasn’t much we could do but basically beg them to check again. After continued checking, the museum agent finally took pity on us and squeezed us in at 10:45.
Had time to kill, so MJ ran back to the hotel for money while the rest of us meandered through the statues in the Piazza de Signoria. Saw “Big Whitey” (Neptune’s Fountain) and Florence’s version of SFO’s Columbus statue (Bronze Perseus Holding the Head of Medusa). Stumbled upon Rivoire, a historic bar and chocolate factory that Jo had read about online, and opposed to what was posted online, it was open on Sunday. The hot chocolate was delicious. As were the assorted pastries, the profiteroles, and yes, the mini pizzas. Ended up making four trips to Rivoire throughout the day. Lisa was on every one. All of us were thankful for the lost reservation and forgotten confirmation.
Headed back to the Uffizi and got in line with the 10:45 group. While waiting, we were entertained with the human “statues”, most notably David.
The Uffizi was enormous, as were the crowds, especially around “Venus on the Half Shell”. Very dramatic entrance - lots of steps. Alan didn’t realize until he’d passed the elevator that he was only on the first of four flights. Corridor upon corridor, stairway after stairway, the sheer magnitude of the artwork was overwhelming. MJ and Jo were most impressed with the octagonal Tribune Room. From its mother-of-pearl ceiling to its marble inlay floor, the red velvet room with seashell-encrusted cupola was quite a sight.
Tired and hungry, with pizza the unanimous decision, we grabbed an outside table at Il David. Delicious. Alan order the David pizza and was quite surprised when it came topped with a fried egg. Terri had her defining moment. The sky kept getting darker so we headed back to the hotel for umbrellas.
Jo and Darrell decided to try Santa Maria Novella again while the rest of the group did some shopping. The church was beautiful. Saw Galileo’s pulpit but didn’t see Brunelleschi’s crucifix. Apparently it was temporarily in some gallery outside Florence.
Everyone hooked back up and checked out some souvenir stands. Lisa saw her scarf for 5 euros. Wasn’t happy. Jo got them down to 4 euros, and after a quick substitution, bought a different one for Lisa. Now she had two scarves for which she paid 10 euros.
Began the gelato death march. While much complaining ensued, afterward all agreed Vivoli gelato was well worth it.
Headed to Santa Croce. Saw the tombs, Michelangelo’s the main draw, but didn’t see Donatello’s crucifix. Apparently the great crucifix comparison just wasn’t meant to be.
Decided to blow off Boboli Gardens. Instead instituted the FLORENCE RULE: Must have a beer in every piazza you visit.
Walked across the Pointe Vecchio then back to the hotel for happy hour. Learned about Terri’s plans to run off with Enrique.
Went back to Trattoria da I Matti for dinner. Great gnocchi, fantastic ribolleti. Crepes very good but not quite the same as Il Trebbio’s. Boo-hoo, no tiramisu. Lisa made a quick stop for chocolate and berry gelato and we all headed back to the hotel.
MJ, Jo, Alan, and Lisa played some euchre. Off to bed tied at 6.
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Michelangelo's David. |
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Duomo. |
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Ponte Vecchio a Natale |
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Palazzo Vecchio |
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Statues everywhere |
| Couldn't take pictures. | Uffizi |
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Basilica of Santa Croce where Michelangelo & Galileo are buried |
Last Updated: 01/15/2010